Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau Rhone, France 2012

Vieux Télégraphe’s standards are always high, but the 2012 is simply outstanding, defying both the thesaurus and the encyclopaedia with its depth of dark fruit flavours, its ripe yet stentorian tannins, and its marked almost salty freshness on the finish—a masterpiece.

In his quarterly newsletter, ’Sémaphore’, Daniel Brunier does not mince his words when he describes the 2012 vintage as ‘simply phenomenal’, inculpating ‘freshness of fruit, balance, and serious tannic structure’ for this state of affairs. And so it proves that there is power and lightness of touch in all three wines. The ballet dancer Carlos Acosta comes to mind, as does Nureyev himself.

The top wine of the estate, the 2012 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape (which is always a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes, from 65-year-old vines) is a classic example of the cuvee and possesses gorgeous aromatics (kirsch, garrigue, big minerality and background meatiness), medium to full-bodied richness and a firm, tannic spine. As is common, it will require a handful of years in the cellar to come around and have 15+ years of longevity.

Located in the southeastern part of Chateauneuf du Pape and located mainly on the prime La Crau plateau, this classic and traditional estate has been run by the Brunier family for generations. Now managed by brothers Daniel and Frederic, the estate continues to churn out a range of high class wines. In addition to their holdings in Chateauneuf du Pape (Vieux Telegraphe, La Roquete, and now Piedlong, which is a new wine replacing the red from La Roquete) they also make wines in Gigondas (Les Pallieres, Vin de Pays and Ventoux ). All of the wines are high quality and will be reviewed in part 2 of this report. To give you an idea on yields from this estate, in 2010 they reported yields of 27 hectoliters per hectare, 2011 was 32 hectoliters per hectare and 2012 came in at 30 hectoliters per hectare.  Drink 2016-2027.
Jeb Dunnuck - Wine Advocate #209, Oct 2013