Chartogne-Taillet 'Chemin de Reims' Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne, France 2020

Chartogne-Taillet’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs Chemin de Reims, disgorged in October 2024 with a dosage of 2.5 grams per liter, is another success. It opens with vivid aromas of fresh apricot, grapefruit zest and jasmine, mingling with a note of roasted hazelnut. As ever, the fruit is drawn from the south-facing vineyard, planted between 1986 and 2005 in sandy, iron-rich terrain. Vinification takes place in seasoned 228-liter barrels (which Chartogne purchase new), with a modest proportion of new oak. While the 2019 vintage leans toward a richer, almost Pinot Noir-like side stylistically, the 2020 is a paragon of Blanc de Blancs: taut, mineral-driven and electrifying. The palate is tightly wound and medium- to full-bodied, with mouthwatering acidity, ample chalky extract and a long, precise finish.