Verget Pouilly-Fuisse Haut de la Roche Maconnais, France 2023

When the "Sur la Roche" vineyard was awarded Premier Cru status, vines at the top of the Roche de Vergisson were excluded because of their elevation; a decision that Jean-Marie Guffens finds absurd, particularly bearing in mind global warming and the public's thirst for fresher wines with lower alcohol. The resulting wine is cheaper and a little more mineral that the Roche itself. Matured in oak with 25% new barrels. Pale lemon in the glass, the nose blends subtle wood spice, salted lemons, lime and fresh white pear. The palate has a fine backbone of acidity, cool citrus fruit, subtle savoury spices and hints of white stone fruit. This is a driven, focused wine that is more about precision and balance than raw power. As a result, you can drink it today, relishing the waves of vibrant acids and crunchy fruits at the core. Light on its feet but long and intense.