THE WINE ADVOCATE 94 – Drink Date: 2019 – 2030 – William Kelley, 30th Aug 2019
“Wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet that marries notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, warm bread and red apples with nuances of dried white flowers, licorice and sotolon, Prévost’s NV Extra Brut Les Béguines LC 14 is medium to full-bodied, tangy and incisive, with chalky extract, crisp fruit tones and a saline finish. This was the year Champagne was plagued by the Suzuki fruit fly, Prévost reminds me, and perhaps that lends this comparatively open, expressive young Les Béguines an added high-toned edge.
Jérôme Prévost farms just over two hectares of old-vine Pinot Meunier in the village of Gueux, where the soils are a millefeuille of calcareous sands and clays. Working with a variety that’s often sneered at, in a village few had heard of and with terroirs that are far removed from the clay-chalk stereotype that dominates discussion of Champagne, Prévost’s tiny estate named La Closèrie nonetheless produces some of the most sought-after wines in Champagne.”