The brighter, more focused side of Chardonnay screams out of the glass in the NV (2008) Le Mesnil sur Oger Les Carelles. Here the flavors are distinctly high-toned, with plenty of citrus peel, white pepper, smoke and slate. Vivid and finely sculpted throughout, with a slightly reductive quality, the Mesnil remains tightly wound and in need of time in bottle. There is an implosive energy that is just waiting to emerge fully. When it does, the Mesnil will be utterly captivating.